" For my part, I travel not to go anywhere, but to go; I
travel for travel’s sake. And to write about it afterwards […] But the great
affair is to move; to feel the needs and hitches of life a little more clearly
, to get down off this feather bed of civilisation, and to find the globe
granite underfoot and strewn with cutting flints." (R.L. Stevenson)"
Quite so Louis, the truth you speak. He was a real travaller.
But I believe, now 140 years later, things are no longer so pristine as they unraveld themselves before your very eyes, feet and soul.
Inspired (or I should rather say, saved by) Robert Louis Stevenson's ideea I go on my trail, mine and my trails trail, pardon sweete:)
She's 10 years old, but at the beginning of the trip had only 1 month and 1300 km since the first time I gently (ahaam) laid hands on her. I was preparing a 2000 km week, by myself.
Voir en plein écran
Doina is a Romanian girl name, but has a deeper meaning (" Lyrical poetry specific of the romanian folklore that expresses a feeling of yearning, sorrow, rebellion usually acompanied by an appropriate song, thus we can say a music style born out of the romanian folklore"). Sorry I'm so bad with explaining stuff, there you go..
Voir en plein écran
Doina is a Romanian girl name, but has a deeper meaning (" Lyrical poetry specific of the romanian folklore that expresses a feeling of yearning, sorrow, rebellion usually acompanied by an appropriate song, thus we can say a music style born out of the romanian folklore"). Sorry I'm so bad with explaining stuff, there you go..
But for me is very profound, is very so home, so longing, so rebellious in my heart for so many reasons...I live in France, true, but I never wanted to leave my country and it saddens me to think of her being sacked and destroyed to pieces, as we speak.
Here Doina, I always say when she sings I'll listen...
- Regional Natural Park of Pillat;
- RNP Livradois -Forez;
- RNP of the Volcans of Auvergne;
- RNP des Causses du Quercy;
- Cévennes National Park;
- RNP des Monts d'Ardèche;
- RNP Vercors.
The Donkey, the pack, and the pack-saddle.
ah, put together all the stuff, Doina has new backpacks they look very awful on her, but I'll have to get used to.
as a beginner, during this trip, I'll have to learn and do quite a lot of new things, the hard way, by myself. Got the help of friends, that joined me in this first month around town, since her arrival, as I am so lost in space I do not know right from left, I know I'm such a miserable driver.
Monday morning weighted all, and entered a state of panic, where all the weight came from?. I was already trembling because I was to scared to go, when I saw the kilos I said to myself I'll never manage and this will end up very badly. I couldn't believe I could put so much on her back. So, equalised the two cases by doing a third one on the saddle. There were some wise guys (still love you all) who said, I'm a girl I must have unnecessary stuff, no, mec I had only 2 mini skirts on extra that I did not use on the trip, otherwise tent, matress, a cooking pot with primus, not much food, as I would buy on my way, running equipement, swimming stuff, no hydratying cream, no perfume, no makeup:) anyway I do not usually use them anyhow. So doing the packs as a beginner, was not easy. Hopefully I had some experience in lightweight mountaineering packing:).
So, the fits of panic, seized me for 30-40 minutes or so, actually I felt like braking down in crying. Was a bit paralysed, and said I'll never going to make it.
By a short message from my friend, backed me up, ok I can at least give it a try and if I feel it cannot be done I'll turn around and leave it so. So off I went.
Give a check as I knew best and with some help, chain greased, tire pressure, all sorts of oil checks, and shock absorber tighten. The latter I have done too much and the by the end of the second day I almost had my back blocked because of the pain. Now, I was dreaming lavander oil massage and thought having a man around would have set my back free, in a way or another. I can write whatever shit, I know there will be no readers:). So, no man arround, you live and you learn, loosened the absorber out, and I was a new person. At first I thought driving a bike can get so painful, but I'm must say, I'm only a bit less experienced:)
I did try to get as much information about..riding tips and found them too :)) The Iron Butts. Now I practically understood the utility of all these points.
Things have been hard at the driving school, I being a blonde and a very clumsy one. I just have to write this down so that I will always remember. The guys and Sandra were awsome, but they never showed that I was a no solution case. Even though they tried hard to explain things over and over again, most of the time I did not hear them because even from the beginig my mind was louder always repeating myself 'you'll never going to make it, you should stop trying, you're useless'. So my advice, for cases as mine, always keep in mind your will, and your need to get out and about in full freedom.
As it comes, I succedeed, after many, many, many, many, many training hours.
And 6 months later, with a lump in my throat, I've started my search for baby. Beacause the fear was high, I was sure I was a lousy driver and that I'll never manage. So I was looking for a trail, as the purpose was to be able to go far away as long as the road stretches, and even further. I had an appeal for old bikes as I find them somehow with more character, and in a way...kind of don't like a super new trail, blinking and shining. Even though I'm new in the bussines, can't help to think that some buy their motorbike to show off, and many do not get the chance to see no gravel paths in their lifetime. Just like some like to buy big SUV, as to compensate for small...well, you know:).
when all this started...I wanted Grenoble - to Georgia&Azerbaidjan, via Campeni.
ok, later as things advanced slowly I said Grenoble - Romania, driving across the Alpes;
then later in July, as I bought Doina quite late in the year...well, had a big surprise, I was not alowed to cross the French frontier, because of her paper work that will take me (I mean , that will take the french administration...4 months).
at first, I said, well this means no vacation this year. And it has been 2 years since I've last been home. Somehow I was relieved, not only I wouldn't have been able but I would surely kill myself or who knows what else.
I agree when they say the first 6 months of a driver are the most dangerous, even long after. And when they say with a new motorbike by the 15000 km you'll get to know her every reaction in different conditions. And this is even more true for a person that does not have the road experience and knowledge of a car driver either, and she is blonde, and clumsy as I said...but also a bit nomad, pilgrimish, vagabond, footloose, starry eyed and who likes dreaming big, being free:), so this balances all. Not to say I was about to end 17 years of hitchhiking and for a traveller this is quite of a deal. So I got feverish to take Doina out...
but what would I do? As I've asked for a one month holidays...one months turning in circles, in France?
it seems like, so I've concentrated myself on the places I knew less, and for a change from the Alpes I walk up and down every weekend. Behold the Regional Natural Parks.
This is where Stevenson got in ..that's it! the Cévennes, and Auvergne and the south and all:)
so I planned 2000k for 2 weeks, that will do for a beginner. Although I could have been in very good company I always imagined this trip by myself, don't really know why. As if I had to cross the step and although I knew nothing about bikes, had to do it on my own. Hmm, still don't understand...
Many parts (videos, photos) of this page have come from www, I'm a lousy photographer and that will do no justice to the beauty of the places I've crossed, and I'll need a refreshing of this trip in my mind from time to time.
30/07 - (PNR du Pillat) - Grenoble - La Chaise-Dieu
Video Credits to Gauthé
Refressing videos, but I will not forget I was soaking wet in the scorching heat.
Malleval - village medieval (source: wiki)
Crête de l'Oeillon - (where you can have Crête de la Perdrix, Les 3 Dents in view)
Barrage du Gouffre d'Enfer which was also my favourite place of the day (in 1866, l'un des premiers barrages poids arqué maçonné d'Europe)
otherwise, be sure not to miss out on Rigottes de Condrieu, vins de St Joseph, Côtes-Rôties et Condrieu et la pomme de Pillat:)
31/07 (PNR Livradois -Forez) - La Chaise-Dieu - Vichy
The very narrow road to the deep north
As today I've chosen the small and intricate secondary roads.
What I've liked best in Livradois-Forez was the feeeling of freedom its high plateaus, spruce tree forests sprinkled with fern gave me. In the open air, small roads, and view sthat would stretch for many km around us. For my knowledge:
31/07 (PNR Livradois -Forez) - La Chaise-Dieu - Vichy
The very narrow road to the deep north
As today I've chosen the small and intricate secondary roads.
L'Abbaye de la Chaise-Dieu (Casa Dei) with its charming little village
le danse macabre
at Col Béal wanted to take a few minutes walk to Pierre sur Haute (1631m, summit Forez Monts), but a great storm was menacing.
This evening, Saint-Yorre was my gate to the waterways:)
01/08 (PNR des Volcans d'Auvergne) Vichy - Lac Chambon
The Waterways
There is another thing I've learnt, is to keep yourself hydrated, so your skin will be healthy and glowing:) This might not interest the bearded motorcycle men:p, but I found it also important to help me avoid headaches, fatigue and keep as much as possible a clear mind for driving.
I went for light lunches too, in those 37°C days, could not imagine otherwise.
The Waterways
There is another thing I've learnt, is to keep yourself hydrated, so your skin will be healthy and glowing:) This might not interest the bearded motorcycle men:p, but I found it also important to help me avoid headaches, fatigue and keep as much as possible a clear mind for driving.
I went for light lunches too, in those 37°C days, could not imagine otherwise.
Vichy
and Source des Célestins, tasty, bubbly thing
in the end they entered the Unesco list;), third time's a charme
Before entering the wild profound France as I imagined, I wanted to do a stop in an elegant town as Vichy, for a stroll in the park (I've left out the thermes because i needed some rather <0 degrees waters to chill myself).
Today was a day when I was least prepared, the planning was not quite well done:) (passed in the valley of the meandres, instead of higher grounds, in the valley no hiking route, was to fast to stop at the viaduct, I thought I would find de sources of Volvic:), turned in circles in Clermont-Ferrand not knowing which was the way out, could not go up to Puy the Dome, because of course you cannot drive up there, and it was to late to take te train:), well, you know not everything goes as smooth, but all together such a beautiful day). And learned that is essential to have a good mental attitude while driving, it's safer. And did learn I have to make plenty of pauses, and I enjoyed them. I've done more than necessary.
Today was a day when I was least prepared, the planning was not quite well done:) (passed in the valley of the meandres, instead of higher grounds, in the valley no hiking route, was to fast to stop at the viaduct, I thought I would find de sources of Volvic:), turned in circles in Clermont-Ferrand not knowing which was the way out, could not go up to Puy the Dome, because of course you cannot drive up there, and it was to late to take te train:), well, you know not everything goes as smooth, but all together such a beautiful day). And learned that is essential to have a good mental attitude while driving, it's safer. And did learn I have to make plenty of pauses, and I enjoyed them. I've done more than necessary.
Parc des sources de Volvic, sparkling green, just like in the commercials. But I thought I would fill up my water bottle as the Vichy water was long finished. All I have found at the sources was refresing fruit flavoured water, crazy what a volcano can do:) apple, exotic, red berries, you name it
Chateau de Tournoel, funny thing to be introduced in the history by the Châtelain himself. And chapeau, for all the energy invested in restoring it.
Puy de Dome, from afar (credits to..)
Roche Sanadoire, entering the sheer beauty of the Auvergne Parc.
In the late evening light, around col de Guery, stretching before me was les Puys in all their beauty and topped with perfect roads, for Doina to enjoy too. I was mesmerised. It was in a way just like the shapes of a women's body (no worries guy still love you, but I appreciate a thing of beauty, and all women are beautiful, the world would not be the same without us), so Auvergne was streching in the evening light, sparkling green, scrumptious, delicious and inviting us to caress those shapes). This is truly Michelin country and just found out what a good road means and what bikers look for, so starting today I've tried to avoid the narrow hard to drive roads, although they are beautiful and can have them only for myself, that even though panoramic or green they are better for cyclists, or at least my driving skills are not as well developped.
Lac Guery (credits to..?forgot)
they say that at Bourboule tu perds la boule:) and I go to Chambon Lac instead
02/08 (PNR Volcans d'Auvergne)
Trail running - Lac de Chambon - Reservé de Chaudefour - Puy de Sancy - Mont Dore
Trail running - Lac de Chambon - Reservé de Chaudefour - Puy de Sancy - Mont Dore
(25 k, 1400 D+)
now it's my turn Doina, honey, as our deal:), have some rest.
A few years ago, while hiking we've stopped our traversée of the Puys in the Valley of Chaudefour, now I pick up:). I pick up, yeah...after an ankle sprain I had less than 3 weeks ago.
Scorching heat that finished by putting me down to a halt in Mont Dore. And it was really they said, one of the hottest days.
Lac Chambon wait for me:)
Cascade de la Biche
Vallé de Chaudefour, love to see this in autumn
Mont Dore and its ski slopes
tiny Dordogne:)
I quote Krupicka, yes buddy, there is always a delicious purpose in running.
an exhaustive liste only to begin with: fromages like Froume d'Ambert, bleu d'Auvergne, St. Nectaire, Cantal, le Salers, les pompes (pomme, myrtillee, etc), les cornets de Murat, le pounti etc etc. But I did not enter the hard winter cuisine, it was far too hot so I rather felt the need to eat some grass and vegetables.
03/08 - (PNR Volcans d'Auvergne)
Lac Chambon - St. Jacques-des-Blats
Murol and his castle
St. Nectaire
Lac Pavin + Puy de Montchal, must not miss this beauty
Plage de Mallet. bathing was my last resort to cool down, every day another lake or river. The problem was that even the water was to warm :(
Vallée et Gorges de la Haute Truyère
04/08 - (PNR Volcans d'Auvergne)
Trail running: St. Jacques-des-Blats - Puy Mary - Plomb Cantal - Thiézac
42k, 2000 D+
all around in Auvergne, happy cows, until the moment they'll put you down babies
05/08 (PNR des Causses du Quercy) St.-Jacques-des-Blats - Saint Cirq Lapopie
Salers - a very beautiful medieval town where you can fill up your pockets with carées de Salers
Argentat, Bealieu/s Dordogne, Saint Cère...so many I forgot which way I've passed.
Rocamadour
Saint-Cirq-Lapopie (visit for early tomorrow morning)
06/08 - (PNR Des Causses du Quercy + PNational des Cévennes)
The day of the most beautiful villages continues...
The day of the most beautiful villages continues...
St.Cirq Lapopie
La Vallée du Lot.
arr, quite fed up of writing all this foolish nonsense. But in a way is more practical then having bunch of photo folders I'll never again open.
arr, quite fed up of writing all this foolish nonsense. But in a way is more practical then having bunch of photo folders I'll never again open.
here is Figeac, another beautiful medieval city
Conques.
you know ever since I've left Auvergne, or even Grenoble to tell you I felt sorry to leave behind the mountains. It's 1 year and a half, since I'm in Isère, that I've seen or thought about them every single day. So as a person used to seeing a forest, walk barefoot on the grass or who loves going skinny dipping at midnight, and who feels alive high up in the mountains, now that I've landed on the plain fields I was feeling lost, anxious, desorientated. And I've realised all this when I got to Conques and as soon as I've seen the forests and the hills felt at home, started to be filled in by a state of calm. Strange, but true, now I know for sure I cannot live far away from nature.
Espalion, Severac Chateau, Le Rozier.
07/08 - (PN des Cévennes) , truly majestic
The day of a million turns
Gorges du Tarn
But in order to fight the heat of the day, that always won and put me down, I've learnt to have an early start and search the 'chill' of the morning. So today I have a workout on my turning skills in the Gorges du Tarn, a dream landscape:). 1 week of riding later I will still have trouble turning in those hairpin turns or simple turns, but no stress I'll practice more.
Château de la Caze
Saint Enimie
Mont Aigoual, loooooved the mist and little wind, finnaly some freshness
Montpellier le Vieux, no mais oh, making me pay for a natural site, and a stroll in the bushes?
08/08 (PN Cevennées + PNR Monts d'Ardeche + PNR Vercors
I return to Roberts words in the chapter A night among the pines, my favourite.
I have a collegue at work, that knows I'm alway in the mountains, on a bike, running or just being out in the wild, she asked me but wouldn't you like to spoil yourself sometimes with a night in a good hotel, fluffy pillows and carpets, a good meal..:), I on the other hand could only have before my eyes the image of the starry sky, the light wind that would caresse me, the light at dawn (my favourite), the shapes of the mountains and the most beautiful views from my million star hotel in the open. I wouldn't give up this for anything in the world. I kind of dislike very much having walls around, and feel a lot better, free. They are just like confining me, as a prisoner and like frontiers do, whether physical or mental.
It was ok this trip, but neither the kind I was used to, nor the way I would have liked it to be, just like Louises one, I wanted to be out in the open, close to nature, discover, meet good people. But things now have changed, there is too much control of ones life, day, living, in society you have to be like this like that, in this trip there was nothing of new or adventurous, I was a kind of passanger, passing through this to perfect places. Enfin, i'll keep my thoughts for myself. And not to say most of the people I've met were passing near me, staring (do not know the word in french...fixer?), in my language i'll say se holbau, se uitau ca bou la poarta noua in other words and never saying bonjour, If I were you I would ask hello,how do you do or whatever, how was your day, but if you're a cunt I wouldn't give a damn how was your day, hell, quite strange people.
And I really have to say, camping sites got me bananas, I do not have the habit of them and couldn't bear them after the 2nd night, full of overprotective grannies, and their grandchildren that in stead of words were using signs, lots of screeaming and yelling to express themselves, so, I have no experience to say about rasing brats, but maybe it will do them some good not to have them confined so much of the time in cars, the house, in front of their telly or PC, let them f*** climb a tree more often, go pick raspberries, that will do them some good.
I've spent some time before I've realised that actually, although the places were stunning, I was getting quite bored, because of the killing me softly heat, because I was alone and sharing the moment with some good persons would have changed everything, because I was missing the mountains more than anything..so tomorrow there are some storms coming up and I'll try to get home before the nightfall.
Gorges de la Jonte, followed by La Corniche des Cévennes, sorry folks but I couldn't find a proper video. I'm under the impression I had far fewer cars on the road early that morning.
After a week of some good green roads proposed by ViaMichelin:) I return to reality on some rapid nationals, that I am not used to.
Cross a part of l'Ardèche, nice one but short. Skipped over to Vercors, and as I got closer to home, I felt my heart pounding. All was good and nice, but cannot help myself thinking we live in such a paradise, here in Isère. By crossing the Rousset Pass, I was entering this emerald bubbly fortress, like entering a baloon of pure air, full of dreams aloft. It is only the gateway to other special places it hides behind and we call home: Belledonne, Chartreuse, Ecrins, Devoluy.
On the plateaux got to be welcomed by my friend, that did help me alot and now, after these days of wandering, I appreciate so much the company of a good buddy :). By nightfall we descend home, and Doina, she has seen to much, decided to go blind and loose her eyesight. Fortunatedly for me it was the only and first technical problem encoutered, we somehow made it through. Even though I was in a predicament, and managed to see only thanks to my friend's light, and I could not help myself throwing glances at Grenoble all lit up in the night, as I love it. Home, end of a very first trip with Doina, in the beginning I thought I'll be afraid of this moment of coming back, when I'll turn the key and Doina will stop singing, but I was none other than so happy, because coming home is only the succesion of the need for search and discovery in the mountains we love so dearly, and here there are endless possibilites, Doina you're coming with me, or I'm coming with you :p, keep your voice warm dear :)
P.S. Started dreaming beforehand about that 2-3 years around the Globe.
- Still got to get the experience...
- find those bunch of open minded buddies, chums, pals it is essential and more heartwarming...
- started looking seriously for a people from which I could learn bike mechanics (maybe - this will make some smile, but I'm serious about it, and will end up by doing some)...I have the determination...
- then after correcting my driving :D, I'll have to get going off the road, because a Trail is built to do a Trail in my opinion:).
The European countries, and all other super developped countries have no attraction upon me.
I'll adore crossing Central Asia when the time will come
If you feel to leaf throught some books:
Travels with a donkey in the Cévennes - R.L.Stevenson
The Motorcycle diaries - Che Guevara (I partly sustain)
P.S. Started dreaming beforehand about that 2-3 years around the Globe.
- Still got to get the experience...
- find those bunch of open minded buddies, chums, pals it is essential and more heartwarming...
- started looking seriously for a people from which I could learn bike mechanics (maybe - this will make some smile, but I'm serious about it, and will end up by doing some)...I have the determination...
- then after correcting my driving :D, I'll have to get going off the road, because a Trail is built to do a Trail in my opinion:).
The European countries, and all other super developped countries have no attraction upon me.
I'll adore crossing Central Asia when the time will come
If you feel to leaf throught some books:
Travels with a donkey in the Cévennes - R.L.Stevenson
The Motorcycle diaries - Che Guevara (I partly sustain)
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