sâmbătă, 26 martie 2016

Granville - Mont Saint Michel - Saint Malo - Saint Brieuc

25 - 27.04 A seaside high wind bike trip between Lower Normandy and Brittany 

I took up from where I left 2 years ago after the weekend in the Cotentin with Raphael.
This should have been a 3 day weekend because of Easter Monday.

It's Spring, and I feel like I've been waiting for this moment for more than a year. This is just beacause it's been a very very long time since the last time I went out for a ride and felt the wind blowing in my curly goldilocks :). Apart that I have had a rather still dull winter in my den, I felt the need to break free and run about. It's really sad to be a town lady nowadays.


To tell you the truth..in my head I've seen myself and said this is no way to spend my day. I did not want to see me anymore in my cocoon, comfort, cuddly bed. I needed to get out and feel the elements: sun, wind whatever, bring them on.


They announced bad weather but I was too eager to go.
Bike trips.
I'm not adressing myself to the chums that are strong men and cyclists. This is for all the girlies (like myself) out there, that still hesitate about getting out and about.During 1 week I've followed the forecast 4 times a day. Make it change Almighty! Strong winds about 60-90 km/h. I'll upload it because for me it must have been the most difficult bike trip ever.

Mont Saint Michel 60-70km/h
Saint Malo 80km/h Sunday
Saint Brieuc 70km/h and 100km/h on Monday (happily I was home by then)
this web site had 100% good data http://www.meteociel.fr/
So...have you ever been in my position and hesitated in going? I said...that will be ok, I'll manage. But I was so so wrong. Planning a trip? Think again in which direction.
Something I have never thaught about ...the wind regime! From this day on...I have become extra careful with it while planning.
The funny thing about it...is that from Granville to Saint Brieuc these 2 days I was always always facing the wind. Changing my bearing?...he was to, at the same time as me, always facing me hour by hour...13h was I heading south? he was heading North, 16h was I heading west? he was heading est...
So, my advice is...do not do it. Do not go battelling the wind, he will surely win.
The wind gusts practically put you to a stand still...just like on a home trainer.
More than once I had to get down and walk along the bike...it was bloody hard.
                           
25.04.2016
Granville - le Val Saint Père 
app. 40km
The trip here
I got to Granville arround 21h just after work. The night is still, clear starry night. I did not think I would cycle much, but I enjoyed it, the weather was good  and stopped pedalling only at midnight. I was getting closer to St. Michel, while riding on the seaside I could see it in the night, very well lit by the moonlight also(full moon, no clouds). It was magic. I've done around 40k I was feeling good, I finally meet my freedom!

Saturday 26.03.2016
le Val Saint Père - Mont Saint Michel - Saint Malo
60 -70 km
                             
There. A proper photo to get your imagination starting
Almost 5 years since I'm in France. I've never seen Mont Saint Michel and thaught I'm not interessed about highly touristic place such as this. I did not understand why people all over the world make such a fuss about it. Today I got there, this was one of the grand purposes of the trip also. Once there, I've understood that it has something mystical about it, truly felt it!
Some more info in videos with Des racines et des ailes 
Before my very eyes, the big cloud and rains that awaits for me to get out of this forteress.
So I have to be strong and face it, not to mention it was getting pretty cold.
I was surprised to find polders (Le polder littoral de la baie de Mont Saint Michel) in this region. But again, it is absolutely normal. There are not only in Holland:). The baie, a good spot to go bird watching too. 
Don't hesitate to try the 'Route des moulins' ou 'le sentier des douaniers'.
 
Pretty little towns along the seaside to: Sainte Benoit des Ondes,  Cancale with their oyster farming.
                 
From Point du Grouin towards L'ile de Landes (bird sanctuary)
Anse de la Touesse


But there is also The Atlantic Wall (https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mur_de_l%27Atlantique).

The wind started to get tough.in the afternoon and I could barely get to the camping site, the storm followed. I was bushed  and wanted to get a train next thing Sunday morning. 
Put the tent, water inside, so I had to improvise my bed in foils and plastics, in order not to sleep in a puddle of water that become my tent. 
So if you think about buying this Ferrino Lighten 1 ...don't think again, don't do it...it is not waterproof as they say it is, and when you're tired and cold the last thing you would want is to sleep in a water bed in the storm. 

Sunday 27.03.2016
Saint Malo - Saint Brieuc
75km
The trip here
The sun is up and I got a nights rest. I have changed my mind and stayed another day.
                                        
Saint Malo ‘Cite des corsairs’ (I love this word..corsaire:D), his personalities, explorers (Jaques Cartier), big men (Pierre Louis Moreau de MaupertuisFrançois-René de Chateaubriand), Castel and fortress. 
10 May recalls us also about the slave trade period and exploitation. For those interested in the position that France took in the events: "Nantes, premier port négrier atlantique français (1714 expéditions de traite au xviiie siècle, app 500000 slaves traded), La Rochelle, deuxième port négrier atlantique français (427 expéditions de traite), Bordeaux, troisième port négrier atlantique français (399 expéditions de traite), Le Havre (392 expéditions de traite), Saint-Malo (216 expéditions de traite), Lorient (149 expéditions de traite), Honfleur (125 expéditions de traite), Marseille (116 expéditions de traite), Dunkerque (44 expéditions de traite), RouenVannes (10 expéditions de traite)"
The museum is a must, I loved it.
http://www.saint-malo-tourisme.com/decouvrir/histoire-et-patrimoine/histoire                                                   
     
The Kouign-amann. Traditional pastry from Brittany.  More than 150 years ancient recipe (40% de pâte, 30% de beurre et 30% de sucre). I heard plenty of legends about it. They say you put 1 full packet of butter. Delicious? mmmmaybe I did not get the best one, or was it because for breakfast it can be hard to swallow:D, no ofence for the Kouign-amann enthousiasts.     
       
 
L'Ile de Bey ('grave' in P Celtic), where Chateaubriand rests his bones. "Vingt ans avant sa mort l’écrivain a manifesté son désir d’être inhumé sur ce lopin de terre, face au large, pour poursuivre sa conversation avec la mer."   
 
  
Left Saint Malo at almost 13h, because the town bewitched me. 
Telling myself 70km I should do them in 5h max. But the wind was as always facing me and I was creeping at 10km/h. 
Rance tidal power station – 240mW,
 that you can also visit during the visiting hours of course.
Another superstrucutre:D I always heard about and now I'm making my way on top of it. 
***
Wind, on top the rain and I had almost missed the train home (got there 30minutes before his departure). Drenched, sticky, smelly and dirty I did not bother about undressing rapidly in the train station and behold myself in my panties while onlookers did not know what was going on. Aboslutely the most difficult day on the bike I had so far. I was really in mode machine in the last 2h, trying to reach Saint Brieuc, drained of energy, fighting the wind. I thought I'll be getting home on my all fours. Luckily for me Monday I was home, I cannot imagine 100km/h gusts, maybe that could have just flown me away back to Paris.

Train problems and only 2 a.m. do I push silently the door of the appartement. Strangely I felt a boost of energy and spent another hour or so in chewing cashew nuts...and feeling happy with myself. It was a hell of a ride but I searched for it, needed it, and enjoyed it in every bit and piece, even when I couldn't keep my eyes opened because of the pourring rain. 
 And I was wondering, which will  my next escape route be?

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